グルカルポ・リ

ランシサ氷河からジュガール・ヒマールの山々 (A) ランシサ・リ Langshisha Ri (6412m). (B)グルカルポ・リ (6889m). (C) レンポ・ガン Leonpo Gang (aka Big White Peak, 6979m). (D) ドルジェ・ラクパ Dorje Lhakpa (6966m). (E) カンシュルム Kanshurm (6078m). グルカルポ・リは、フランス隊が登頂するまでに数カ国のアタックがあった。 1933年冬、韓国隊、西稜6100mまで迫ったが登路は困難を極め断念。 1998年秋、日本隊、北西稜、 6150mにて敗退。 1999年、ドイツ隊、西稜、深雪に阻まれ敗退。 2001年冬、韓国隊、南面、極寒の中雪崩に会って敗退。 2003年秋、韓国隊、南東稜、雪崩のため敗退。登山申請では、（日本人希望者が1名でも）別にネパール人3名の隊員が含まれることが条件になっています。この3名にクライミングガイドをあてることができます。政府に支払う登山料は、１～８名まで同じ料金です。 BC　ペンタン・カルポ（Pemthang Karpo＝Morimoto Peak Base Camp 6150m） Camp 1　4800m Camp 2　ランシサ・リとグルカルポ・リの間のコル Camp 3 5800m Camp 4 6200m 日程： Day 1. カトマンズ到着 Day 2. 登山申請と準備 Day 3. 車でシャブルベシ Day 4. ラマホテル Day 5. ランタン Day 6. キャンジン・ゴンパ Day 7. キャンジン・ゴンパ Day 8 to 19. 登山期間。キャンジン・ゴンパに戻る。 Day 20. ラマホテル Day 21. ドゥンチェ Day 22. 車でカトマンズ Day 22　出発（帰国）料金：お問い合わせ下さい。料金に含まれるもの： ◆許可証申請手続き ◆カトマンズでのホテル宿泊、朝食 ◆交通費（空港送迎、登山口往復地上交通) ◆クライミングガイド3名（登山費用、賃金、保険、装備） ◆ポーター、コック、キッチンボーイ費用 ◆キャンプ、クライミング共同装備（North Face V25 tents for above BC, all main and fixed rope, snow bar, ice screw, rock pitung, carabiners, EPI gas and EPUI gas stoves, all kitchen pots for the higher camps above BC, all high food, minimum of 1600m fix rope, 100 snow bar, etc.） ◆登山、トレッキング中の食事 ◆手配料金料金に含まれないもの： ◆酸素と吸入器具 ◆カトマンズでの食事 ◆薬、医療費、保険 ◆国際航空券 ◆電話 ◆洗濯 ◆アルコール、ソフトドリンク ◆その他個人的出費 ◆ボーナスとチップ Gur Karpo Ri. Camp 1. C 1. C2. C 3.

チップ等の情報はこちらをご覧下さい。→　7000m Expedition
個人装備についてはこちらを参照して下さい。→　8000m級登山装備

Gurkarpo and Ri ….

Looking southeast up the Langshisha Glacier, Jugal Himal. (A) part of the south face and Standard Route on Langshisha Ri (6412m). (B) Gurkarpo Ri (6889m). (C) Leonpo Gang (aka Big White Peak, 6979m). (D) Dorje Lhakpa (6966m). (E) Kanshurm (6078m).
Introduction:
Gurkarpo Ri had been attempted five times prior to the French ascent: first by Koreans in the winter of 1993 (reached 6100m on the west ridge but gave up due to technical difficulty); Japanese in the autumn of 1998 by what they refer to as the northwest ridge (gave up at 6150m); Germans the following year, but they were prevented from really getting to grips with the west ridge due to deep snow; Koreans again in the winter of 2001, but they forfeited low on the south face due to avalanche conditions and cold; Koreans again on the southeast face in the autumn of 2003, giving up low down due to avalanche conditions.
For this peak, you need to have minimum of 3 Nepalese members to be joint with whatever number of foreign clients. The permit fee is also same for 1 to 8 member. We take the permit giving the name of 3 Sherpas and later we use these sherpas as a climbing guide.
About the route:
Setting the base camp at the start of the glacier at a spot known as Pemthang Karpo, though sometimes referred as Morimoto Peak Base Camp 6150m. Morimoto Peak (officially named Bhemdang Ri) lies to the northwest.
Camp 1 Set the camp 1 at. 4800m on the side glacier, Camp 2 on a huge, flat glaciated col between Langshisha Ri and Gurkarpo Ri. Due to 4 long camps to reach the summit, we need 1600 meters of fix rope and 50 snow bar.
Camp 2, Camp 2 is situated directly opposite and to the south lay Dorje Lhapka (6966m), which Grobel had climbed in 1999.
Camp 3 was placed a little to the left of this at 5800m, and as a training/acclimatization exercise, this part was climbed to a small summit at PD+. The broad glaciated slove to the left of this area was climbed and fixed, generally by Grobel and his two Sherpas, Cho Temba and Zangbu.
Camp 4 at 6200m.

Program:
Day 1. Arrival in Kathmandu. Check in hotel
Day 2. Preparation of the expedition and the permit process complete
Day 3. Kathmandu - Syabru: 10 hours for 160 km The entire first part was superb out of the valley and in the descent to Trisuli. Overnight at Syabrubesi.
Day 4. First day's walk up the valley of the Langtang Lama hotel.
Day 5. Lama hotel – Langtang
Day 6. Langtang to Kyangjin. You can see the summits from here.
Day 7. Rest day in Kynjin
Day 8 to 19. Kynjin to Kynjin climbing period.
Day 20. Trek down to Lama Hotel
Day 21. Trek and drive down to Dunche
Day 22. Drive to Kathmandu

includes the following services:
Breakdown :
the climbing permit including the 3 Nepalese members
the members fee for taking them as our member in the team for their allowance
We do not need liaision officer
meals for 19 days during the entire trip from Kathmandu to Kathmandu
3 nights 3 star hotel in Kathmandu
the private vehicle from Kathmandu Syabru and return ti Ktm including the crew
the main guide who handles the whole expedition including the climbing part for his salary, insurance and equipment allowance
the per assistant climbing guide
the cook for his salary, insurance and equipment allowance
kitchen boys for his salary, insurance and equipment allowance
North Face V25 tents for above BC, all main and fixed rope, snow bar, ice screw, rock pitung, carabiners, EPI gas and EPUI gas stoves, all kitchen pots for the higher camps above BC, all high food etc. minimum of 1600m fix rope, 100 snow bar

Not includes:
Meals during Kathmandu stay, Oxygen, Mask & regulator, personal equipment, medical and personal high risk insurance, international air ticket, staff tips, telephone and laundry, alcoholic beverages and item of a purely personal nature, etc. carrying bonus, Summit bonus.

2012.2.21
Mt. Gurkarpo Ri
グルカルポ・リ　(6889m)