トゥクチェ・ピーク |
適期:4,5,10,11月 ノーマルルート:北西稜 |
2012.12.21 | ||||
Mt. Tukuche Peak | ||||
トゥクチェ・ピーク (6920m) |
ダウラギリⅠの北東10.5kmにあります。 フレンチ・パスとダンプス・パスの間のヒドン・バレーの中間にベースキャンプ (5100m)を設営。 キャンプ1が5600m 、キャンプ2が6100m. トレッキング中すべてテント利用です。 日程:
●料金: (2013年の場合) 2人の場合の1名様分:$11026 3人の場合の1名様分:$9623 ◎ポカラのホテル1人部屋、テント(BCまで)1人用利用の場合 2人の場合の1名様分:$11385 3人の場合の1名様分:$9977 料金に含まれるもの: ◆許可証申請手続き ◆リエゾンオフィサー費用 ◆ポカラのホテル宿泊(2人部屋)、朝食 ◆交通費(空港送迎、登山口往復地上交通、国内便フライトチケット) ◆クライミングガイド(賃金、保険、装備) ◆ポーター、コック、キッチンボーイ ◆スタッフの交通費 ◆キャンプ、クライミング共同装備、高所テント、高所食料 (North Face tents for above BC, all main and fixed rope, snow bar, ice screw, rock pitung, carabiners, EPI gas and EPUI gas stoves, all kitchen pots for the higher camps above BC, all high food, fix rope, snow bar, etc.) ◆トレッキング中のテント(2人テント)、食事 料金に含まれないもの: ◆カトマンズでのホテル宿泊、食事 ◆酸素と吸入器具 ◆薬、医療費、保険 ◆国際航空券 ◆電話 ◆洗濯 ◆アルコール、ソフトドリンク ◆その他個人的出費 ◆ボーナスとチップ |
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チップ等の情報はこちらをご覧下さい。→ 7000m Expedition |
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個人装備についてはこちらを参照して下さい。→ 8000m級登山装備 |
Tukuche peak (6920m) is an interesting climbing objective. It is a very picturesque almost symmetrical 3 ridge pyramid with Northwest, Southeast and South ridges radiating from the summit. The obvious and safe climb is along the Northwest ridge, which is the most often climbed as it presents very low objective danger. Although the ridge itself is not steep but it is considered a technical climb and with the elevation close to 7000m there is the need to acclimatize and the elevation exposes climbers to a cold and windy weather conditions. The climb is usually done using two camps at 5600m and at 6100m.
Tukuche is located in Dhaulgiri region 10.5km Northeast of Dhaulagiri I. The Tukuche Base Camp (5100m) for the North Ridge climb is located in Hidden Valley midway between French and Dhampus passes. The standard 9 days access trek to the Base Camp follows a classic section of Annapurna Circuit via Poon Hill and Kali Gangaki Valley to Maphra and Dhaulagiri Base Camp Trek via Yak Kharka allowing a solid acclimatization. Return trek from the Base Camp to Jomsom takes only 2 days followed by 20mins flight to Pokhara. Alternative approach is via Myagdi Khola Valley separating Dhaulagiri I from the rest of Dhaulagiri peaks Dhaulagiri II, III, IVand V, via Italian Base Camp offering slightly different trekking aesthetics.
First Tukuche ascent was in 1969 by Swiss team and till 2007 a total 38 expeditions attempted the climb and 19 teams including 72 climbers were successful. After aesthetically satisfying climb the reward of the summit is an absolutely stunning vista on a whole range of massive and famous 6000m, 7000m and 8000m peaks: Dhaulagiri I (8167m), Dhaulagiri II (7751m), Dhaulagiri III (7715m), Dhaulagiri V (7618m), Annapurna I (8091m), Annapurna South (7219m), Bhartha Chuli (6839m), Nilgiri North (7061m), Nilgiri Center (6940m) and Nilgiri South (6839m).